Day 3 at Smoky Mountains National Park

The signs at Laurel Falls Trail.

We decided that yesterday would just be spent hiking two easy trails to photograph waterfalls. A wrong turn changed our day into a beautiful adventure through the forest. Eventually, we found one of the "less strenuous" trails on my list, but I didn't realize it was a 2.6 mile hike and not a half-mile, until we were at the .8 mile marker.  
  
Since it looked like this might be the only falls' hike we would accomplish, we decided to just take our time and see it through, and we were so happy that we did. Besides, we kept passing people who were coming back down from the top who were either a lot older than us or didn't seem as physically fit as we considered ourselves (we're in denial). Each one that went by convinced me that we were going to do this, no matter. 

Along the path we passed the beautiful Mountain Laurel and Rhododendron, various flowering weeds, pines, oaks, maples, dogwoods and tulip trees. Signs were posted warning us about the sheer drop offs and reminder signs that we share this area with the black bears were a bit unsettling. Someone reported that he spotted a black snake that, although non-poisonous, does bite, however, we didn't see him (phew....I don't like snakes and I think George likes them even less).

Once at the top, we snapped a few photos and sat on the smooth water-worn rocks to rest.

I had managed to keep my blood sugar at a good level up to the top, but all of a sudden it began to rapidly plummet. Adjusting my insulin intake is a very fine balance, and I almost had it covered, but needed to be rescued by my glucose gel, a Kind© Honey and Nut Bar and George. The gel and Kind© Bar elevated my blood sugar, but George talked me into sitting and waiting for them to kick in, which was the wisest decision I don't always make in these instances. 

The wait also offered us time to speak with a Park Guide who filled us in on the Laurel Falls Hiking Path. He explained about the bears, the snakes and people who constantly make foolish mistakes in the park. He found a Goldfish Cracker and explained how things like this could kill a bear. He told us about a little cub who was found emaciated and who is now being monitored with a GPS device after being rehabilitated and returned to the park. Some bears, referred to as "Nuisance Bears," also wear GPS trackers to alert Park staff of when they venture too close to neighboring towns. The residents don't like their visits, but the bears are only in search of food that they have tasted due to human carelessness. The bears are also so used to seeing and smelling humans, that they don't know enough to be afraid of them. When bears do wander out of their safe habitat, they don't always make it back. Quite interesting stuff offered by a quite interesting man.

The easier 1.3 mile hike down.

Looking out from the trail.

By the time we reached the car my feet were sore and achy. It felt good to take off my boots and let them breathe a bit. Although, after only a few breaths, back on they went, because we found another little spot to investigate, "The Little Greenbrier School." The school was built by the Walker family, whose many children attended. Opposite the school was a fenced in area that I couldn't figure out what it could be until I reached the open gate. It turned out to be another cemetery. 

Notice the wide planks of wood and the teacher? at the front.

Many of the stones were so old they couldn't be read, but newer stones had been lain with just the names of those whose remains lay beneath the ground. Sadly, I found five original stones of five siblings all in a row. All had been born to Mary Walker - three girls and two boys, buried close to one another. Only one of the boys lived until five years old, the others passed immediately or within a year of their birth. I can't imagine how a mother could bury so many children.  

How fortunate for all of us reading this entry to have been born now, opposed to back in the early 1800s, when life for these strong pioneers was so challenging.

Right by the side of the road.

Luckily, we were afforded the opportunity to view a little wildlife during our day. We watched a grouse and her babies cross the road and, in two separate areas, two black bears -  one large and one small. The little one was so cute, but the fact that momma was probably close by made him frightening. I kept glancing at the cub and looking around for mom.

She was at a distance, and we dared not get any closer.

Things I observed (other than the flower and fauna): Few people are overly friendly, most barely make eye contact and may just nod their head once, some mutter, "hey." some look down while you pass by, some are obviously in a world of their own and totally ignore your presence. I also witnessed the lack of respect for the park, the animals, other visitors and the environment. I found deliberate littering to be such an insult that I picked it up on my way down from the falls. Yelling and hollering in this serene location was also disturbing to those of us who want to appreciate the quiet solitude of the paths, sights and natural sounds.

On our way back home, we needed to make a pit-stop at a supermarket and it turned out to be the grand opening of a brand new Publix. We've never seen so many people in a supermarket at one time. They were offering chances to win gift cards, handing out free cookies, free sushi samples (I got one) and cooked food. Down every aisle we ran into someone chewing something. It was nice not to have to worry about expiration dates since everything was obviously delivered recently. We checked out, received a free insulated grocery bag and went on our way. A long day, full of adventure had come to an end.

Deep thought for the day:  "Respect for ourselves guides our morals, respect for others guides our manners." ~ Laurance Sterne

To market, to market to fetch a fat pig. Home again, home again, jiggity-jig

Well, we didn't get a pig, but we did get us some beef jerky! 

Today was a day where I crossed of a few of the things we had either missed or hadn't gotten to yet. The biggest coup was getting a photo of the entrance to Great Smoky Mountain National Park. A fellow tourist offered to take our photo, and since I close my eyes all the time, I asked her to snap a few. Good thing I did, because although my eyes were open in every picture, all but one was askew. I am too OCD to post a crooked photo, so only the one I took and her best one made it to the blog.

We found a pretty path along the parking area by the sign and strolled down along the Little Pigeon River. The crystal clear water was noisily babbling along the smoothly worn rocks. It was an idyllic spot.

We spent the afternoon in Gatlinburg with the original plan to visit five wineries that were along that main strip of road, but after visiting two of them, I discovered that they only offered the sweeter, fruitier wines.

Searching for a dry wine.....

Unfortunately, nothing here for me.

Gatlinburg is a touristy town with a main road that would take you a full day to walk just one side to check out the businesses. You would want to avoid this area during the week-end when so many people visit for the day or long week-ends. We found every type of store imaginable. We found one that sold all kinds of popcorn, one that sold all types of jerky and nuts, one that sold flavored olive oils and vinegar and several that sold your typical souveniers. We ended up with something from all the above, including the jerky!

George was such a good sport about taking me to wineries that he got to pick his reward! 

With his sugar-high peaking, George decided to try one more winery that we would pass on our way back home (yes, home is wherever Allie and Lucy are parked) and this one, Hillside Winery, was the best of the bunch. I was able to purchase two bottles out of the 10 varietals that they offered. The remaining eight were the sweeter wines. 

We drove by a multitude of attractions. There were many different themed dinner show venues, Dollywood, Wonderworks, Ripley's Believe it or Not, The Titanic and The Wax Museum, to mention just a few. The sights are almost overwhelming. You have to see it to believe it.

The Wax Museum

No caption necessary....

Dollywood, if time permits.

This is a perfect place to take kids ranging in age from toddler to late teens.

For us, the National Park would have been enough to fill an entire week. We have one more day planned to spend in search of waterfalls to photograph. On our two previous trips in we weren't able to view any, but we plan to accomplish that task tomorrow. Completing those hikes will end our visit on a high note and my bucket list will be partially full (for this visit). I would love to return some day, but at a different time of year. I'm thinking the fall would be spectacular with all the sugar maples in peak color. 

Deep thought for the day: Vacations are always too short. They are spent watching the week fly by too quickly. You exhaust yourself trying to fit it all in before you have to leave and return to "reality." 

Retirement and living full-time in an RV is "un-reality." It's unreal......yet it's real. ~ vc

Great Smoky Mountains - Day 2

We awoke to bright sunshine yesterday and were pleased that this day at the park would be warmer and sunnier. Sunday night we needed to move Allie to a different site, because the one we were in was previously booked for the upcoming week. We could have moved in the morning, but decided to "git 'er done," before bedtime. By the time we finished, it was 10 pm, but so glad we didn't need to take all that time before heading out to the park.

So, for now and until we leave here on Friday morning, we are in site 165, which is a nice back-in, full hook-up, 50 amp and partially shaded site.

Allie and Sir Duke are quite comfortable and Lucy loves looking out the windows at the bird, canine and human population.

Yesterday was Day 2 at Great Smoky Mountain National Park and we have yet to get the opportunity to snap a photo of the official park entrance sign. We were informed at the first Visitors' Center that Cades Cove was a "must see," and it more than lived up to that claim. I would highly recommend any visitor to make this a priority on their list of things do in the park. Be sure to allow a full day of driving and hiking to see it all.

We were afforded peaceful pastures, wildflower-filled hills and valleys, original 19th Century buildings (and some reproductions) where the first Euro-American settlers came to make their homes among the Cherokee. We learned the names of the first settlers - the Olivers, Lequires, Shields, Tiptons, Sparks, and Lawsons. Many of them are buried in one of the the church cemeteries located in the Cove. 

I thought it interesting that for such a small area and population that three churches were necessary, but ethics and politics caused the residents to split into three religious groups. 

The very first church built in 1827 was a log building called Primitive Baptist Church. Church meetings ceased during the Civil War and politics split the congregation into two factions afterward - the original Baptists and the Missionary Baptists. The church depicted below is the one that replaced the original in 1887. 

The original Methodist Church, a log cabin, was built in 115 days for $115 back in the early 1820s. It stood and served its followers until it was replaced with the current church in 1902. 

Some Methodist Churches split the seating of their congregation by gender, which explains the double door entrance, but this particular church didn't. They only borrowed the building plans for another Methodist Church. A graveyard lies behind this church as well.

Original headstone for John and Lurena Oliver, two of the first settlers in the Cove.

The original Baptist Church followers split over ethics and the original Baptist Church was re-named "Primitive Baptist Church" and the new church built in 1839 was called the "Missionary Baptist Church." The photo below is of the second church that was built in 1915. Its doors closed in 1944, but family of the original Cove residents have continued to be buried here.

The oldest building in the Cove is the John Oliver House, built in 1826. It contained a "great room" on the first floor and a sleeping area above. It is located in a peaceful valley. The house boasts a split-log construction with "dove-tail" corners and hand-made shingles. 

I couldn't imagine the energy, strength and guts it took to construct a home in the middle of Native American land. These people were true pioneers. I feel guilty now for complaining when I was waiting for cable to be hooked up last time I moved.

 

 

Original home with a section added behind to enlarge.

 

This photo shows the addition behind the original log home.

Elijah Oliver, the son of John, build his home a few miles down the road just after the Civil War. His property had more buildings and were constructed slightly different. There was a spring house for milk and butter, a smokehouse for meats, a corn crib, and a barn. Water was carried from the spring for drinking and bathing.

 

Smokehouse (foreground) restored, corn crib replica.

We passed the Tipton family property with all the buildings for a working farm. Although the corncribs, barn and smokehouse are reproductions, the log cabin is the original from the early 1870s and appeared to be a smaller version of the Elijah Oliver home.

My favorite house was built by George Washington "Carter" Shields. The location, style and layout would have been a lovely place to spend my days. I thought of my son, Glenn, and pictured him loving it as much as I did.

You can see where an addition was made after lumber was available.

Low ceilings helped to keep the home warm in winter. G wondered where the TV would have gone.

The huge upstairs sleeping area.

The side door looks out to a lush green lawn and forest beyond.

We saw the sad reminders of a hard life - many infants and young children were buried in all of the cemeteries. One mother lost three infants within 4 years. All three grave markers read "Infant daughter, budded on earth, bloomed in heaven," along with the date. Many years later, the parents were eventually laid to rest, followed by the siblings and their families. 

We saw delicate butterflies. We heard many different bird sounds. We "heard" silence.

We saw determination, strength and perseverance from what remains on the land and what lies below in the Cove.

Butterflies, pastures, valleys, mountains and blue skies.

 

Deep thought for the day:  Look back just long enough to see from where you have come in order to appreciate the direction in which you are headed today.  ~ vc

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

We spent Saturday afternoon driving, walking and hiking through Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The park is spread almost evenly between North Carolina and Tennessee. It is the most visited of all the National Parks, and I wonder if it's because there is no entry or parking fees, or if it's for the breathtakingly beautiful sights, its "hike-ability" and "drive-ability."  There is surely something for everyone regardless of your physical abilities or limitations. 

The higher mountains, full of spruce and fir, actually appear to have smoke billowing from the treetops and cool mist fills the air creating an approximate 20 degree difference to the forest floor way below. 

It was so interesting to learn about the different "levels" of the forest and the species of trees that thrived best in each. For instance, below the spruce and fir trees you will find hardwood trees such as beech and yellow birch. The next level down intersperses the poplar, sugar maple, hickory, magnolia and hemlock.  At the bottom, growing alongside the pine and oak are mountain laurel, rhododendron, the delicate dogwood trees, wildflowers and various indigenous shrubbery. I love nature....a place for everything and everything in its place.

The weather was misty, damp and chilly, but we managed to see a lot via the road trails and one hiking trail. Clingmans Dome trail allowed us to stand on the border of NC and TN in 46 degrees!  The wind chill made it actually feel more like 30 degrees. After a very steep half-mile hike we had to still climb to the top of the dome itself, and were a bit disappointed by the lack of any view, but the fact that we set out to conquer it and did, made it worthwhile. The photo at the misty-aired top is our proof. I happily "earned" my Smoky Mountain NP t-shirt.

Tomorrow we plan to head to Cades Cove, a section of the park that early settlers had developed. There are some original and reconstructed buildings, including a church that I'd like to hike in to see. Since it promises to be a much easier hike, I'd like to tackle one more, Laurel Falls, which is another easier hike of 2.6 miles that will afford a nice vantage point for photographing the falls.

I believe if we had 100 days to spend here we would not be able to devour it all. There are so many birds, mammals, trails, waterfalls, sights, sounds and acres of land that change with every season. You would need to be a Park Ranger to truly appreciate this place, that or a black bear!

Enjoy the photo show.....

Little Pigeon River

We came across several tunnels through the mountains.   The bottom section of forest - Pine, Oak, wildflowers, shrubs.

Close to the top - smoky and full of majestic fir and spruce

Clingmans Dome - we did it! 6,643' elevation.

 

Below Clingmans Dome.....the boundary sign at only 5,046 feet, warmer and clearer.

Stage where John D. Rockefeller presented the National Park to the people.

A crossroads.....we chose Clingmans Dome Trail.

The end of a long day.

Deep thought for the day:  Please - tell me what I can't do, because I will prove you wrong. When faced with a challenge, I hate to lose.   ~ vc